Summer of ‘24 Pt. 1 - Aix-en-Provence

The South of France’s Brightest Jewel

My 2024 trip to Aix-en-Provence marked my second chance to explore the winding streets and fountains of South of France’s brightest jewel. Its honey-coloured buildings, vibrant markets, and charming little bars begged a return trip. My first visit was in 2022. My Dad and I jetted off to Aix for a post-exam trip. However, the trip of 2024 was with my friend, classmate, and flatmate, Duncan. We were looking for a cheap and cheerful holiday at the beginning of the obscenely long university summer holidays. So off we went.

Planning a trip like Aix was very easy. Scoring £35 return flight from Edinburgh to Marseille made finding accommodation much more straight forward. Such cheap flights are not uncommon between the UK and France, especially during the off-season. We were spoiled for choices of dates with flights ranging from £35 to £70 at any time in May. Moreover, the bus from Marseille airport to Aix was only €7 each and was exceptionally efficient.

For accommodation in Aix, I certainly think it’s easier to go for an Airbnb. Aix has many flats up for grabs and it’s not a big enough place to mean you’d be too far away from the town centre. We managed to get a great studio flat just off the Cours Mirabeau - the main boulevard cutting through the old town. For four nights, Duncan and I paid around £170 each. Just over £200 for accommodation and flights is – I admit – very lucky, but not that uncommon. I was certainly surprised at how easy it was to go to the South of France so cheaply, as the reputation of luxury and excess can be misleading. Of course, if your heart is leaning more towards Nice or Monaco, the prices will increase dramatically. That is what is great about Aix. You get all of the quintessential French beauty, without it draining the wallet.

On the other hand, food prices in Aix may leave something to be desired. During my first visit, I was fortunate enough my dad covered everything. I never had the chance to look at the bill long enough to see how grateful I should have been. It only fully occurred to me after Duncan and I tried to go out for lunch upon our arrival. I’ll only say that €45 for two burgers is a lot of money. Duncan and I got around this problem by cooking ourselves. A pack of pasta, a lovely fresh sauce, cheese and a 6-pack of French beer will only set you back one quarter of what those burgers will. Lovely fresh produce certainly makes up for simple cooking.

Our time in Aix was mostly spent exploring. No fixed schedule, no booked excursions, just seeing where we ended up. The city is so easy to get lost in. Every road leading to another bustling square with a drinkable-water fountain adorning the centre. Several times we would find a place once, try and find it again, and then it was gone. I remember one night; we found this little pizza place doing €3 slices. We bought two and ate them as we wandered in the fresh evening air. They were absolutely delicious. After we finished those two, we greedily planned to go and get another two slices – for posterity, you understand. We walked down every road, round every corner trying to retrace our steps, but it was gone. This may sound frustrating (and at the time it was), but looking back there is such a charm to a place like that. No part of Aix could disappoint.

Castle walk

Avignon

Despite this, we planned one day to get the bus to the medieval town of Avignon. Another gem of Provence. This, I would struggle to advise. Avignon is lovely, and somewhere I would encourage anyone to visit if they can. However, €80 for two return bus tickets left a very sour taste in our mouths. For a distance nearly identical to the Marseille airport route, we could not fathom how the price was so extreme. It’s easy to moan about the public transport here in Scotland. However, the bus from Glasgow to Edinburgh would cost easily half of what Aix to Avignon did. If you are operating on a flexible budget I would say, go for it, but be prepared for a shock. Having done a day trip to Marseille on my first trip to Aix, I was not overly keen to repeat it. There are nice parts to Marseille, but few places I have been to have felt as unsafe. Our day was only filled by a Mona Lisa immersive exhibit, otherwise, the tourist options are surprisingly limited.

In Aix, on a Tuesday and Thursday, the old town burst alive with a huge market. Hand-made crafts, artisan food stalls, anything you can think really, it’s probably sold there. We managed to get to two days of the market. We easily spent three hours each day just exploring. A set of antique stalls surrounding the Rotonde were particularly fascinating. This, I would say, could beat any day shopping at modern malls in Marseille, but each to their own. Our evenings were mostly spent wandering and then having beer while people-watching from our window. However, on the final night, after passing it several times, Duncan and I splashed out on a cheese platter at this cozy wine bar just off the Cours Mirabeau. €24 all in, and I would not have missed it for the world. A plate of easily 10 cheeses, with a pot of truffle honey, a pot of jam, and a bucket of fresh bread. My mouth is watering thinking about it even now. This was the only restaurant food we had other than the burgers, and I would highly recommend.

Aix has a certain je ne sais quoi (no, I am not saying that ironically). No place I have been to has struck that balance between being up-market and having pristine streets while feeling so relaxed. Aix is also a university town, most of the people we saw were around their twenties, making it far more comfortable for us as university students. It’s not swamped with foreign tourists, in fact I daresay I could not pick out a time we encountered other tourists from Britain. Some Americans here and there, but don’t let that put you off. The temperature ranges between 15 and 26 degrees Celsius during the early summer, and it’s a Mediterranean heat so is was very comfortable. Furthermore, the people we spoke to in Aix did not have that same, aloof quality you might find with Parisians. A number of shopkeepers-initiated conversations with us and could not have been more friendly.

When all was said and done, with souvenirs bought and a pot of truffle honey for good measure, we both spent under £400. For what we received, I certainly felt very content with paying that.

Therefore, I reflect on Aix with much joy and a craving to return. For anyone looking for a relaxing holiday, without breaking the bank balance, but wanting to feel the ambience of an old James Bond movie, this is the city for you. A bientot, Aix.

Affordability - 7/10

Visitability - 9/10

Transport Availability - 7/10

Accommodation - 8/10